13th October 2006
The Saga driver arrived to collect us at 13:15 and we had an uneventful journey to Heathrow (via a slightly different route) where we bumped in to Ken & Eve Horwood who were also in their way to South America. We were offered, and accepted, an earlier flight to Madrid from where we flew on (at 00:20) to Santiago.
14th October 2006
Although our flight left slightly late it made up time en-route. We both got some sleep on the way over but not much. The Hotel in Santiago was okay although our room was a little disappointing but the food and wine at lunchtime were superb. There are four other people on the pre-tour extension (to the Atacama Desert) and we’ll meet them properly at dinner this evening. We took a walk around the local area this afternoon but there is not too much to see as it’s a largely residential area (there is a view of the of the Andes at the end of the road though!!). This evening’s dinner was very good and included wine and coffee and we met our fellow travellers including two ‘extras’ who had arrived following a trip to Argentina so there are a total of eight of us heading off in the morning (two of them seem a bit odd but hey ho!). We have very early start tomorrow and the clocks go forward an hour tonight – oh joy! Weather warm & sunny all day.
15th October 2006
We flew from Santiago to Calama (with a short stop at Antafagusta on the coast) with good views of the Andes all the way. We then had a 100km drive to San Pedro de Atacama with few stops on the way to view the scenery, geology and to see the Guanaco (a member of the Llama family). Out hotel is an adobe built set of rooms which is fairly basic but we like it. We walked the town this afternoon; it’s small and filled with tour companies (backpacking style), hostels, restaurants and quite a few craft shops. All in all it’s rather nice. This evening we ate as a group at a restaurant in town, the food was okay but a bit bland and the choice was limited (we suspect it’s been tailored for the tourist palate). Hot & sunny all day but cooled considerably after dark.
16th October 2006
A good day, which included a guided visit to the Archaeological museum that was fascinating and took most of the morning. We also went along to the church of San Pedro. We then had lunch in town before returning to the hotel for a rest before our afternoon excursion to the Salar de Atacama (the massive salt flats). We drove (via a very pretty town called Tocanoa) and then walked on to the salt flats where we saw two types of flamingo, sandpipers, plovers and a mass of other bird life. We stayed out on the slat flats to watch the sunset that was great and then made our way back to town to eat. Hot & sunny all day.
17th October 2006
This morning we visited a local ruined fortress built on a big hill and Graham managed to climb most of the way to the top. The views from up there were great but it’s a shame about the hotel that’s being built a short distance away. We had lunch in town and then took the excursion to the Valley of the Moon where we walked down a huge sand dune and all the way through a rock canyon – fascinating, once again it was quite an effort but Graham managed the walk. Once we left the canyon our local guide Pamela took us for a sunset drink and nibbles overlooking the valley – very pleasant. It was then back to town for dinner. Hot & sunny all day.
18th October 2006
We were up at 04:00 this morning and left at 05:00 for a fairly long fairly rough trip up to see the highest set of Geysers in the world (I believe). We stopped en-route in the middle of nowhere, to see the stars and the entire Milky Way – excellent. We arrived at the Geysers at around 14200 feet above sea level and it was –11C. The landscape was fascinating and really pretty as the sun came up. We had breakfast and hot chocolate (much needed) overlooking the Geysers before moving on to Caspana a small village hidden in the mountains where they were celebrating their Saints day (St Luke) so we stood and watched the parade through the village. Next we went to see a very old (pre Inca) church at Chiu and then on to the village of Lasana stopping on the way to see a number of Petroglyphs. The included lunch was great, local dishes made by the ladies of the village. We also visited the ruined fortress just outside of the village before returning to Calama airport, flying back to Santiago and checking back in to the Boneparte Hotel (and a slightly better room).
19th October 2006
This morning we met up with the rest of the group going on the main tour and w had an included City tour. The traffic in the city was bad and the city generally busy so we didn’t get that much time to look around. The Cathedral was very pretty (inside) and the visit to the museum rather rushed – shame. It was then back to the hotel for a buffet lunch before joining an optional (but not for us) tour to a family run winery – very good. Dinner was, as usual, taken in the hotel. Hot & Sunny all day.
20th October 2006
Today we took the optional excursion to Valparaiso and Vina del Mar. The traffic out of the city was heavy so it took a long time to reach Valparaiso where we had a few stops including a visit to the home of Artist Pablo Neruda; the views of the Pacific from the house were great but, apart from that, there wasn’t much to see. Valparaiso appears to be nothing more than a large, rather run down port town. From there we moved on to Vina del Mar further which is a seaside town without the usual U.K. trappings (nice beaches and a few eateries but no amusements – great). A number of us joined up and had lunch on the waterfront before the coach collected us and took us along the coast to see a colony of sea lions and pelicans. The return trip to Santiago was broken with one or two scenic stops before I was back to the hotel and dinner. Warm & sunny all day.
21st October 2006
We left the hotel in Santiago at around 08:30 and arrived at the airport in plenty of time for our 11:15 flight to Puerto Mont, arriving at around 13:00. We had a short tour around the town and then visited the fish and craft markets before heading for Puerto Varas and out hotel that overlooked the enormous lake and had some great views of the Volcanoes the area is famous for. We also had a brief walk to view the lake and volcanoes. The food in the hotel proved not to be too good but other than that all is well. Warm & sunny all day, and we’re told that’s not common here.
22nd October 2006
We woke to overcast skies this morning and, unfortunately, they obscured most of the views. Out first port of call today was the Petruhue waterfall, very pretty tumbling falls with bright blue glacial waters. We then boarded a Catamaran for a lake trip which was designed to show us the scenery but, unfortunately, light rain and low cloud meant that we saw very little – oh well! We had lunch (very nice but far too much) before making the1km walk back to the boat. It was mostly dry as we made the walk and we saw hummingbirds en-route. Our return across the lake was a complete washout because of heavy rain and it rained hard most of the night.
23rd October 2006
It was very wet all morning as we walked in to town to do some chores e.g. buying and writing some postcards so we took refuge with one or two others, in a rather nice cake shop and Graham bought some hi-tech shirts in a travel shop in town. Later in the day we joined a trip along the lake to the town of Fruitillar where we visited a local outdoor museum (great weather for it!) before being taken to a tearoom for coffee and cakes. Overall it was a very wet day and, unfortunately, it feels like it’s been a bit of a waste of a day.
24th October 2006
The weather was a bit better this morning, we could at least see across the lake even if the Volcanoes were still hidden from view. We joined an optional excursion to a local ranch whose owner owns, trains and rides horses for the Chilean rodeo circuit (the Chilean National sport) which is completely different to a North American rodeo. The horses are trained to run sideways at speed and a team of two riders aims to ‘pin’ a bull against the arena wall (the wall is padded to prevent injury) to gain points. We saw the horses, the equipment the riders use (all hand made) and a riding demonstration before having a really good lunch which consisted of a small crab pie, a chicken kebab, steak (excellent) potatoes and vegetables followed by some great fresh fruit plus tea and a camomile liqueur – phew! The farm also had three great big soppy St Bernard dogs. It rained again from part way through the riding demonstration, all the way back to the hotel and then again during the evening. Overall it’s been very wet again.
25th October 2006
We left early this morning and were taken to the airport for our flight to Punta Arenas where we had lunch at a local restaurant (three courses again!) before re-joining the coach for the long run to the Torres del Paine National Park. The first 100km or so was across open flat lands with lots of sheep farms but also local wildlife in the shape of Rheas (a bit like an Emu), Guanaco, Kara Kara (like a very big crow), flamingos and a family of ducks which caused the bus to stop as, as it waddled across the road the wind caught the ducklings and started to tumble them across the road. Our tour guide and driver played International rescue, collected them up and set them down on the far side of the road. We had two further stops along the way as the scenery started to change to mountain ranges. We entered the park late afternoon and saw lots of wildlife including a Patagonian Grey Fox, buff necked swans, ibis, black-necked swans, black-breasted buzzards, eagles and condors. We arrived at our hotel at around 20:30 and had an included dinner looking out over the icebergs in the mid distance. We also booked a trip to the glaciers tomorrow. Mostly sunny all day and not too cold.
26th October 2006
We left for our boat trip at 08:00 and a bus took us part of the way. We then had to walk and there were lots of ups and downs, bits of rough ground, and a suspension bridge that could only take four people at a time and, lastly, an area of open sand to cover before we could board the boat. There was also a strong gusty wind that made the walk pretty difficult for Graham but he made it! We then had to climb in to a zodiac that took us out to the boat, it was no trouble but we got pretty wet from the spray. The boat trip started out a bit choppy but it eased as we went across the lake. We spent an hour or so making our way across the lake, passing icebergs along the way and stopping to pick up/drop off at a lakeside campsite. We saw both halves of the glacier at quite close quarters and they were absolutely beautiful with some stunning colours running through them; we should have some good pictures. After the trip we went back to the Hosteria for lunch and a drink before I joined the afternoons guided walk. The walk lasted 2.5 hours and took us alongside the Pingo river with a number of ups and downs and some rough rocky areas to clamber over – Graham made the right decision not to join us. After another (very good) included dinner we sat down to watch a National Geographic film about a Puma that was made in the Park around 10 years ago. There are believed to be around 60 Pumas still remaining in the Park. Bright & sunny all day but cold and often very windy.
27th October 2006
We left the Park this morning (unfortunately) making a number of scenic stops along the way. We also stopped off at the Milodon Cave, a huge cave where Milodon bones and later evidence of human occupation were discovered. It was hard work for Graham getting around the cave but, once again, he made it. We had lunch at a local cafeteria opposite the cave where the food was okay but the service very Fawlty Towers. From there we carried on to Puerto Natales and, once we’d checked in to our hotel overlooking the waterfront, we went for a walk in to town with Mike & Rhonda where we found a bookshop/café that hires motorcycles and can arrange tours – we had a very interesting chat before Graham, unfortunately, went base over apex as we left the shop, thankfully he didn’t hurt himself too badly! This evening we had a final dinner as a group. It was a bit cloudier today and decidedly nippy at some of the photo stops.
28th October 2006
Today’s journey took us back across the same roads to Punta Arenas but this time, with a number of photo stops. We also saw around fourteen condors all waiting their turn at a dead sheep in a field although it was a bit too far away to get a clear view or any photos. Once we arrived back we had a bit of a city tour and then some free time for shopping/lunch in town before heading to the airport. There was a bit of a silly situation on the flight as they sat everyone who was getting off at Puerto Mont in the window seats so it was a shambles at change over time. We didn’t arrive at our hotel in Santiago until after 22:00 and then had a final drink/snack with Mike & Rhonda. Partly cloudy and quite cold for most of the day.
29th October 2006
We waited around until around 10:00 this morning to say goodbye to Mike & Rhonda. As we had our room until 14:00 and were being picked up at 15:00 we went for a walk to the local shops and supermarket. I’m now sitting next to the pool in warm sunshine under clear blue skies writing this!! Our flight to Easter Island was uneventful if noisy (there was a group of people on board apparently having a party!!). We arrived at our hotel to some confusion as they only had bookings for nine people and there were ten of us but Elena our local guide (who wasn’t particularly helpful) eventually got it sorted out.
30th October 2006
We had our first half day tour today and went to see some of the ruined Maui that are quite close to the hotel. We also visited Orango where the famous ‘birdman’ culture and ceremonies took place and saw an enormous volcano crater. We then had lunch back at the hotel before going for a walk in to the village (the only one on the island) which is spread out and has a number of small supermarkets, restaurants, souvenir shops and an artisans market. We then walked down to the waterfront and had a drink whilst watching two big turtles in the water just a few feet away. I later went for another walk to buy Graham a hat as he’d managed to leave his behind at the rodeo Hacienda last week. We had dinner as a group this evening and most went to bed at around 21:00 but Graham, John and I joined two Americans (not the nicest) in what was probably the least well stocked bar known to man!!! The weather today started out very good, we then had half an hour or so of rain at lunchtime and the afternoon and evening were glorious. N.B. The food here is a bit different – we had fresh tuna for lunch and an odd beef stew type dish for dinner.
31st October 2006
Our full day tour left at 09:30 and visited a number of sites of toppled Maui and then the volcano that was the quarry that provided the stone for all of the Maui (Rana Raraku). The stones are everywhere, some finished and some not, some still attached to the volcano face (they are carved in place and then cut away). Our next stop was Ahu Tongariki a restored/preserved platform with fifteen standing Maui. We had lunch at the foot of the volcano before leaving for Te Pito Kura where there is a large circular stone once considered to be ‘the navel of the earth’ and which is magnetic (proven with a compass) and which gives you mild pins and needles if you hold your finger tips close to it. Our last stop was Anakena beach which is not only a lovely sandy beach but has two platforms one with an old single Maui and the other with a group of seven which was restored by Thor Heyerdahl and his team in 1955 (the team included our guide Elena’s father). I had a paddle whilst we were at the beach so once we got back to the hotel had a bath before dinner and then went to watch a film (Rapa Nui, starring Kevin Costner) which Elena says gives some idea of the Rapa Nui culture despite it having been high jacked as a romance. The film turned out to be particularly bad and in any other circumstances we wouldn’t have sat through it!! Hot & sunny all day.
1st November 2006
Another 09:30 start this morning and we first visited the quarry where the red ‘top knots’ that some of the Maui wear were made, there were also some great views from there. We then moved on to a platform with seven Maui which represent the Polynesians who first found the island. Next was a visit to a Lava tube used by the natives to hide from the slavers who decimated the island population. Lastly we went to a cave at sea level (which was used in last nights awful film) that has remains of cave paintings on the walls/ceilings. We also saw an idiot who’d been climbing the rocks out in the water get washed into the sea by the waves, luckily he was okay if a bit embarrassed. It was then back to the hotel for lunch and a free afternoon which we spent walking down to the waterfront where Graham sat (people watching) outside the dive centre whilst I walked along the coastal path to the ‘Maui with the eyes’. We followed that with a little retail therapy (not much though as it was a public holiday and a number of the shops were shut). This evening we elected to go out to a local restaurant which puts on local food and entertainment and overlooks the harbour. The entertainment was provided by three local men in traditional costume playing instruments and dancing – very good. They also performed a traditional ceremony at the opening of the ‘Omuh’ (pit oven) which housed a large Tuna, some belly of pork and two chickens which had been wrapped in palm leaves and cooked under hot stones – all very good. The restaurant owner then very kindly drove Graham and I back whilst a number of others walked. We finished off the evening with a few drinks with Patricia (the bar girl) and others. Hot & sunny most of the day.
2nd November 2006
We were collected at 09:30 and, as our flight had been delayed by two hours, we were taken to the island museum, quite interesting but…… We were taken to the airport at 11:00 and the flight left still two hours late. As a result we didn’t arrived at the hotel in Santiago until 22:15 for our final dinner. Hot & sunny all day.
3rd November 2006
We were picked up at 10:00 and taken to Santiago airport for the last time. We checked in with no problem but unfortunately, had a child behind us on the flight who was rather a pest and neither of us got any sleep at all!! Santiago was hot & sunny again.
4th November 2006
Our flight arrived at Madrid at 06:10 and Barajas airport is a farce, you have to go through passport control, down two levels in the lift but the floors aren’t marked, onto a mini train, then up two levels in another lift, through passport control (again) and security checkpoints before walking quite a way before getting to our departure gate 1.5 hours before our flight left and our passports were checked AGAIN. Our flight was uneventful and we arrived at the concourse at 11:00 although our driver didn’t turn up until 11:20 or so but we were still home by around 13:00.